Sunny September days in Exmouth

We enjoyed a wonderful journey to Lympstone Manor, arriving at the beautiful, five-star luxury manor house hotel in Devon in the afternoon. The dynamic Michael Caines opened the hotel in 2017 and Lympstone Manor quickly became a must-visit destination.

Lympstone overlooks the tidal Exe Estuary, which falls and rises by four meters with the tides, so always provides a different view. We were entranced by the charming shepherd’s huts nestled between the vineyards and the estuary - Hare’s Rest was a perfect haven from which to explore the vineyard, gardens, estuary, and wonderful walks. The village of cosy, self-contained shepherd’s huts nestled in a little wood by the estuary, with a great view from the veranda up the vine rows towards the main house.

Since our last visit, their vineyard – planted to Pinot Noir (50%), Pinot Meunier (30%), and Chardonnay (20%) – has come on in leaps and bounds. We were lucky enough to take a vineyard tour with operations chief, Steve Edwards, who took time from managing the green harvest, and was excited about the planned picking date of 26th September 2022.

We were whisked up to the manor by chauffeured golf cart to experience a delicious dinner. Following our aperitif of Champagne and canapés overlooking the vineyard and estuary, we moved into the dining room and selected from the a la carte menu, both choosing the entree Millefeuille of scallop and salmon, with pickled shavings of beetroot and turnip and lashings of Oscietra caviar. Delicate slices of pink fish and white scallop laminated together were just as pretty to the eye as they were delicious.

After much discussion with the very knowledgeable Head Sommelier, Sylwia Oger, we matched with one of our favourites – ROCO ‘Gravel Road’ Chardonnay 2016 – Rollin and Corby Soles’ Willamette Valley, Oregon-grown beauty. With citrus blossom, green pear, minerality, cashew, fine French oak, it was an excellent match.

For main course, we both had the Brixham turbot butter poached with braised leeks, and truffle and chive sauce. Wonderfully rich with umami flavours, the opulence of the ROCO with its nutty, spicy oak was an excellent foil.

For dessert, we indulged in a light-as-air raspberry souffle with raspberry coulis poured over it at the table. And, a selection of local British cheeses, with Franz Haas Moscato Rosa 2020. Ruby red, full of spice, rose petal and British cottage garden floral characters.

Every tiny detail had been thought of in the perfectly appointed in our Hare’s Rest Shepherds Hut. We both had a perfect, restful, deep sleep in the comfortable Hare’s Rest with the cosy woodfire stove, a sky filled with stars above and immersed in nature, it was an experience of complete peace. We rose to a delivered breakfast of warm croissants, forest berries, local cheese and were fortified for exploring further afield.

On the grounds, we took in the lovely sculpture decorated Lady’s Walk and explored the recently completed Pool House. A gorgeous, well-appointed club, with restaurant and bar, heated pool, and terrace to sun yourself, and tennis court and croquet lawn if you were feeling energetic. What a wonderful spot to relax or host a party.

As the sun came out, we headed to the estuary mouth for lunch at Michael Caines’ more relaxed Mickeys Beach Bar & Restaurant. Upstairs in the sunny, glass dining room, it was a perfect spot to watch the sail boats and ferries navigate the incredible tides on Lyme Bay. From a wonderful seasonal menu, we enjoyed a local Sandford ‘Devon Mist’ Hazy Cider with Mussels marinière as a shared starter. Then traditional fish and chips with minted peas, tartar sauce and the delicious, spicy, Indonesian fish curry. Finishing with raspberry, mango and coconut sorbets, made in house by glacerie gelato chef.

Tempting as it was to laze the afternoon away indulging in the great selection of wines, we thought a walk along the boardwalk to enjoy the views of the glimmering water and ever-changing view of Lyme Bay and watching the kite surfers take their lives into their hands was in order.

We were delighted to discover local artist Ella Slade’s beachside Ella’s Studio. Her impressive seascapes and landscapes of Devon and Cornwall captured the essence and vitality of the local scenery.

Eventually, we made our way back to Hare’s Rest in time to enjoy the sunset and backgammon on the veranda overlooking the chain of ponds and vineyard. A lovely trip to one of the most beautiful parts of Britain’s south coast.