We assembled this tasting after an enthusiastic deep dive into the cellar, revealing some of our cherished Australian wines were surpassing their recommended drinking ages. It was a day full of surprises.

We shared our treasures with neighbours who have been so supportive during the dark days of Covid, and a special young Australian couple (daughter of great Aussie friends Michael & Stacey). A quorum of Aussies added authenticity and nostalgia to the day!

A special line up of aristocrats of the Australian wine industry included:

2002 d'Arenberg ‘Coppermine Road’ Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale, South Australia)

1999 Leeuwin Estate ‘Art Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River, Western Australia)

1999 Burge Family ‘Draycott Grateful Reserve’ Shiraz (Barossa Valley, South Australia)

2001 Parker Estate ‘First Growth’ Cabernets (Coonawarra, South Australia)

1998 d'Arenberg ‘The Ironstone Pressings’ Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale, South Australia)

1991 Wynns ‘Michael’ Shiraz (Coonawarra, South Australia)

2001 Henschke ‘Abbotts Prayer’ (Eden Valley, South Australia)

2002 Torbreck ‘Steading’ Grenache Mataro Shiraz (Barossa Valley, South Australia)

Happily, our 3:00 pm start coincided with the transition from ‘root’ to ‘fruit’ day on the Biodynamic calendar; with the steady, experienced hand of David Levin opening the wines (only the Henschke cork broke). We expected some stunning bottles, others comfortably easing into their dotage, and the odd wine that was just simply past it. But we were completely astonished.

The first wine we tasted 2002 d'Arenberg The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon, blew everyone away. Ruby in colour, the intensity of bouquet was stunningly seductive and vibrant, with violets and strong anise. The palate entry was seamless, expansive fruit concentration and a powerful richness that tunes the back palate and resonates. After eight hours in the glass this wine was still vibrant.

The oldest wine 1991 Wynns Michael Shiraz (at 30 years!) was one of our favourites. It still showed power and concentration on the nose, with pepper, mulberry, chocolate, and coffee notes the palate entry was seamless, with unexpected brightness and beautiful balance of flavour, structure, suppleness with the finest of cedary tannins perfectly integrated. Even after six hours in the glass, the wine showed not a hint of tiredness (unlike its taster), with minimal sediment.

1999 Burge Family Winemakers Draycott Shiraz has a special place in my heart, which was only reinforced. Garnet in colour the nose was smoky, with restrained fruit and broody spices. The palate was extraordinary: the fruit, texture, tannins, and spice were so perfectly woven together and danced as one across and around the palate leaving a mouth filling brightness.

In anticipation of our need to fortify ourselves, artisan cheese shop Paxton & Whitfield came to the fore. We paired the tasting with Baron Bigod, a beautiful brie from Fen Farm dairy, Mrs Kirkham unpasteurised cheddar from Lancashire, Golden Cross goats’ cheese from East Sussex, and Sticheton, delicious unpasteurised blue from Nottinghamshire. Our village butcher, Warners, provided a perfect piece of aged rib eye, which I rubbed with our favourite combination of ground cumin, coriander, Spanish smoky paprika before barbequed in true Aussie spirit, sliced thinly, layered on sour dough with horseradish-mustard cream.

We were slightly nervous after the cork disintegration in the 2001 Henschke Abbotts Prayer, but need not have worried, the wine was in perfect condition. Garnet in colour, the nose was open and rich with flavours on the palate long, luscious, and seductive.

2001 Parker Coonawarra Estate, there was no mistaking, it could only be from Coonawarra. Ruby, and still incredibly bright, with concentrated cassis, iron, earth, liquorice, and olive. The palate had mellowed, the length and structure stunning. This must have been a behemoth in its youth, with a suggested drinking window between 2006 and 2018. This wine even has some evolution ahead and it was a privilege to enjoy it on its ascendancy.

1998 d'Arenberg The Ironstone Pressings was a standout of the day with its Rhône style. The Grenache bouquet was extremely attractive in its development, this wine has evolved into a silky grandee – arrogant, pouty, naughty, and irresistible.

1999 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet, adorned with one of my favourite Art Series labels by David Lawill, an artist with a distinctive, exuberant style that so resonates with Leeuwin Estate. Ruby colour, on opening the eucalyptus ester quickly dissipated to reveal still vibrant, richness and concentration of fruit. It sparkled with life, still with a tautness that promises further evolution.

This was an emotional tasting, having been separated from my Australian family and friends for so long. A poignant reminder of the unmistakable Australian character and spirit, a life affirming remembrance.

Midnight, Sunday 26th September 2021 – Lynne Levin

Australian Vintage Red Wine Tasting